Tarakasi (ତାରକସି), or Cuttack silver filigree, is a craft in which artisans in Cuttack, Odisha, turn silver into extremely fine wire. They twist and coil the wire into lace-like patterns and solder it into jewellery and ornaments. The name joins two Odia words: tara (wire) and kasi (design). In March 2024 the craft was registered as a Geographical Indication under the name "Cuttack Rupa Tarakasi (Silver Filigree)". Rupa means silver.

Origin and history

Filigree, or ornament made from fine metal wire, has been made in many parts of the world since ancient times. In Odisha it is linked above all with Cuttack. Cuttack is the state's former capital and a historic centre of trade on the Mahanadi delta.

The craft's exact age in Cuttack is uncertain. When the GI was granted, the applicants were reported to have traced the craft's link to the region back to the 13th century. Some popular sources describe the tradition as "over 500 years old". Others suggest that filigree reached the eastern coast through older sea trade. Sources differ, and Odiapedia has not found a dated primary record that settles the question.

How is Tarakasi made?

The basic steps of Cuttack filigree, as described by artisans and craft writers, are:

  1. Melting and drawing. Silver is melted and cast into rods. The rods are drawn through progressively smaller holes, or rolled, to make very fine wire. This step was once done entirely by hand and is now often helped by simple machines.
  2. Making the frame. A thicker silver wire is bent into the outline of the design, such as a flower, leaf or peacock.
  3. Filling. Fine wire is twisted, coiled and pressed into the frame to fill it with delicate patterns. This is the most skilled and time-consuming stage, done with fingers, tweezers and small tools.
  4. Soldering. The piece is dusted with soldering powder and a flux such as borax, then heated over a small flame. This fuses the wires without melting the design.
  5. Finishing. The piece is cleaned and polished. Craft writers also describe finishing techniques such as granulation and a frosted white "snow" finish.

Products and motifs

Cuttack Tarakasi is used for:

  • Jewellery such as earrings, necklaces, bangles, anklets, brooches and hair ornaments
  • Odissi dance ornaments, the silver jewellery worn by Odissi dancers
  • Religious and decorative pieces, including miniature temples, chariots and figures of deities
  • Durga Puja decorations. Cuttack's Durga Puja pandals are known for silver filigree backdrops (medha) and ornaments made for the goddess

Common motifs include flowers and creepers, peacocks and other birds, the Konark wheel, and temple forms.

GI status

According to the GI Registry's state-wise list, "Cuttack Rupa Tarakasi (Silver Filigree)" is a registered GI of Odisha. Its application number is 767, and the application was filed on 1 July 2021. News reports in March 2024 say the applicant was the Odisha State Co-operative Handicrafts Corporation (Utkalika). Some reports at the time noted that gold filigree (suna tarakasi), also made in Cuttack, is not part of this registration.

See the full list of GI tags of Odisha.

Artisan communities

Tarakasi is made in small family workshops across older neighbourhoods of Cuttack. Skills pass from master craftsmen to apprentices. Each Durga Puja season brings work on pandal decorations, alongside demand for jewellery and gift items throughout the year. One aim of the GI registration was to protect the name "Cuttack Rupa Tarakasi" from filigree made elsewhere and sold as Cuttack work.

How to buy authentic Tarakasi

  • Look closely. Handmade filigree has slight variations between repeated units, and small solder points are visible under magnification. Cast or stamped imitations look too uniform.
  • Ask about purity. Ask the seller to state the silver purity on the bill. Where a BIS hallmark is offered, check it.
  • Watch the weight and price. Very light, very cheap "silver filigree" may be plated base metal.
  • Buy from official sources. Utkalika, the Odisha State Co-operative Handicraft Corporation (utkalikaodisha.com), is the GI applicant and runs state handicraft showrooms. In Cuttack, buy from established workshops that will give a proper invoice.

Odiapedia also lists a small range of curated authentic Odisha products.